I can't switch my light on at all
Have you unlocked your Laserlight? The first thing to do is to unlock your light. Hold down the two buttons together for two seconds and the white light should flash slowly twice. Okay - now try again!
The light won't turn on - all I see is a red indicator flash
This means that your Laserlight needs a charge. Plug your green charge cable into a powered USB port and attach the other end to your Laserlight's control panel. The tiny indicator lights should start blinking to show you that it is charging.
The light won't turn on - and there's no indicator flash
The Laserlight's battery could well be so depleted that even the indicator lights don't have enough power to turn on. Give your Laserlight a nice, healthy top-up using your charge lead and a powered USB port. And for the long-term health of your battery, try not to let this happen again - when batteries are stored, they slowly lose charge over time. You should always try to leave at least 40-60% of charge in your Laserlight when storing it over the summer to account for this gradual depletion.
The light works, but the laser doesn't
So, you've unlocked your Laserlight, but the laser won't fire. Sound familiar?
Is the Laserlight clipped into your supplied bracket? For version 1 Laserlights, the laser will not turn on (and the white light will only work in torch mode) all of the time that the Laserlight is out of its bracket. When you clip the light in, this activates a tiny switch which enables the laser to work in both steady and flashing modes, and the white light will also operate at 100lm flashing, 100lm steady and 300lm steady.
If you are riding with a black Laserlight shipped after 1 January 2016, then you will find that your laser will turn on whether it is in the bracket or not. There are pros (avoids misdirection and unnecessary battery depletion) and cons (not quite as durable) to having this switch in the Laserlight, but if you are worried about misdirecting the laser then make sure you take two seconds to lock your Laserlight (by holding both buttons) each time you remove it from your bike.
Nothing happens when I charge the Laserlight
Be sure to connect to a powered USB port - not all USB ports are created equal, and some of them do not supply enough power for connected devices. Try using a different port on your computer, the back of a television or try with a USB power adaptor. We've found that the number one reason for Laserlights failing to charge properly is because the USB port in question is not supplying enough power.
If you have any further questions about charging then please do let us know.
Sleep-and-charge: Usually, when a computer is turned off, the USB ports will stop supplying power. However, the descriptively-named sleep-and-charge ports will keep supplying power, even when the computer is turned off. These USB ports are usually a different internal colour from the others (usually red or yellow) or they can also be denoted by a tiny 'lightning bolt' symbol.
I can see two bikes - a double image
The Laserlight projects the image of a bicycle a set distance in front of your handlebars (we suggest five metres). But maybe you're concerned because you've switched your Laserlight on and you can see two bicycles, one on top of the other.
Don't be alarmed - this is something that is present in all Laserlights. It is due to the way that a bike image is created from a single laser beam. You might think that the bicycle image is created by a 'gobo', or simply a patterned stencil in front of the light source, but the truth is far stranger than that.
So in brief, the green bike image is produced by a laser component, which produces one focused, coherent beam - a tiny point of very bright light. The beam pattern is very different to an LED, for example, where the light will be more diffused and will spread wider.
To turn this pinpoint of light into the image of a bicycle, the beam passes through an internal DOE - a diffractive optical element. This is a tiny plastic lens which performs the huge task of spreading the beam into a tightly controlled image. To put this into perspective, the size of the aperture through which the laser beam travels is about the size of the light's wavelength - just 520 nanometres (0.00052 millimetres). Light will also travel slower through plastic (the DOE) rather than air, so the speed of light through different surfaces is a consideration too. Creating the bike image from a spot of light requires huge amounts of precision!
On every single Laserlight, two bike images will appear due to the internal reflection between the laser component and the DOE, but there will clearly be a stronger bike image and a second one that is much weaker. There is a tolerance for how bright this second bike should be when each one is tested on the production line, so that the brightest bike will always be the one that is the 'right' way around, and the weaker image will not register to other road users when used on the streets and in real life situations.
I can see a bright, green spot
There is a central green 'dot' that you will see on the bike image too. This is called the 'first order of diffraction' and is also present on all Laserlights. This is created by the tiny amount of the beam that travels in a straight line through the DOE and it occurs in the true centre of the image. To eliminate this brighter spot, we could position the bike image so that the bright green dot is hidden, but without it the entire image would appear much weaker.